Brunello di Montalcino – one of my favourite Italian wines. Its just so approachable with its medium tannins, and for an impatient person like me, the 5 years minimum bottling (6 for riserva) suggests a shorter drinking wait after you pick up the bottle from the store. 100% Sangiovese, my personal preference is for the single-vineyard traditional Slavonian oak riservas where the Tuscan sun and richness of the grape really shine for themselves. There is a great deal of variance in the terrain where the elevation spans from 150-500m above sea level – allowing for a diversity of flavours from a small area. The hilly nature also lends for chilly evenings in the summer, be sure to bring an extra layer if you are planning to be al fresco for the gorgeous sunsets.

I had only budgeted 1.5 day for Montalcino, and did not want to waste any time. A bit of a wine snob I largely skipped the Rosso during most tastings, if possible, jumping straight to the riserva. The sweeter Moscadellos were sometimes enjoyable but let’s be real, we are here for the good stuff. Everyone knows Banfi, credited for spreading BDM far and wide (especially to Americans) but I was more keen to visit the less commercial, small production makers who made their wine with artisanal care. But where to start?? Trying as best to be scientific I created a matrix with the reviews and comments of the top Tuscan critics, then ranking each by # times the wineries were featured and sorting them by flavour profile. Harvest season is when the serious wine follies visit the area, but even during the summer, tastings are hard to book. Arranged mine 3 months in advance and barely got my top picks!

Il Poggione x5
Biondi-Santi x3
Col D’orcia x3
Poggio Antico x3
Barbi x2
Caparzo x2
Lisini x2
Casanova di Neri x2
Fuligni x2
Poggio di Sotto x2

Wanting to get a broad introduction to the Brunellos, we kicked off our arrival with a sunset tasting at Il Palazzone where we were welcomed at the golden hour 730pm for a tour around their small cellaring operation and ended with tastings on the roof to soak in the Tuscan sunset. Palazzone is not a famous winery but Esther, our host, was extremely knowledgable and gave us the frank comments on her personal BDM / overall Italian picks. Very clear instructions on how to reach this corner of the hill; its such a perfect vantage point – we even had a surprise visit by a wild boar!

Among the more serious wines, we made the excellent decision to visit Col D’orcia and Poggio Antico, contrasting the traditional and modern varieties of BDM. Il Marroneto and Valdicava also produce delicious bottles; if we had time those would be my next picks.

<Col D’orcia>
Although one of the larger producing names (after Banfi, Frescobaldi), Col D’orcia is the first major label to be certified organic (in 2010). DOCG already has strict requirements on the BDM process, and by adding on all the nuances needed to hit organic status it really elevates the wine to another level. The biggest win I think comes from the reduced use of sulphates, which really shows in the freshness and smoothness of the tannins. We scheduled a private tour with Jessica, already familiar with the Poggio al Vento by taste but was impressed to know that this riserva is a 4y oak and 3y bottle before it is released to market. 2001 and 2006 are my personal picks! Unfortunately they do not ship to HK; bought 1 bottle at winery and 2 via Enoteca Fortezza at a premium.

<Poggio Antico>
Back up the hill from Col D’Orcia, Antico is the hip alternative – perfectly manicured cypress trees and more experimental wine making methods. They grow a broad variety of grapes and are not afraid of producing blends; I love what they have done with Altero and its willingness to embrace French oak instead of the classic Slavonian option – James Suckling is a big fan of the 2007 vintage. Needless to say, we brought home quite a few and their shipping was not only affordable it even arrived home in HK before we did!

<Enoteca Fortezza>
If you want a proper schooling in Brunellos, be sure to pay a visit here. What more wonderful setting to drink wine in the cool rooms of an abandoned fort? We arrived at 10am and requested for their premium 5 glass Brunello tasting, which they happily accomodated to my tastes for ready to drink bottles. Taking tips from other reviewers, we made it clear that we intended to shop for a case to send home & were well taken care of. Couldn’t resist ordering some stracciatella cheese with tomatoes to go with them. Without a doubt, we paid a hefty premium per bottle but they subsidised half the shipping cost to HK and they were attentive and observant to figure out our palate. Left with the following: Cerbaiona 2012, Marroneto 2012, Madonne delle Grazie (Marroneto) 2012, Poggio di Sotto 2010, Madonna del Piano 2003 Riserva (one of my top picks), Poggio al Vento 2001 Riserva, Tenuta Nuova 2012. Yum!

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